by “Diego Delso, Wikimedia Commons, License CC-BY-SA 3.0”
Setúbal is the main city in the Setúbal Municipality. In the times of Al-Andalus, also known as Muslim Spain or Islamic Iberia, a medieval Muslim state occupying at its peak most of what are today Spain, Portugal, Andorra and part of southern France, the city was known as Shetúbar. In the 19th century, the port was called St. Ubes in English and St Yves in French.
September 15 marks the date in the year 1860 on which King Pedro V of Portugal officially recognised Setúbal as a city. It is located on the northern bank of the Sado river estuary, approximately 40 kilometres (25 miles) south of Portugal’s capital, Lisbon.
In the beginning of the 20th century, Setúbal was the center of Portugal’s fishing industry, particularly well known for its sardines. None of the many factories then created are operating today. However, the existing maritime ports, either traditional, commercial and the new marinas, keep the city links to the ocean and waterways well alive and vibrant.
The beautiful existing natural conditions are one of the city’s most appreciated facets, due to its interconnected location with the Sado river on one side, and Atlantic Ocean on another. It is connected as well with the nearby coast of the Arrábida Natural Park – which offers unspoiled flora, fauna and beautiful beaches facing the Atlantic Ocean.
Across the river on the south bank lies the peninsula of Tróia (which we talked about in a previous post), a place with vast white/golden sand beaches. The Tróia peninsula can be sighted from the city, across the river. Albarquel, Figueirinha, Galápos, Galapinhos and Portinho da Arrábida are some of the city’s many beaches, located in the north bank of the estuary, at the very beginning of the Arrábida Natural Park.
The main historical monument of the city of Setúbal is the Monastery of Jesus, with a 15th- and 16th-centuries church that represents one of the first buildings in the Portuguese late Gothic style known as Manueline (which was developed during the reign of King Manuel I of Portugal).
The São Filipe Castle, is a 16th/17th-century fortress on the north bank of the Sado river, overseeing the city and it sports a fantastic view over the ocean.
The central Avenida Luísa Todi (avenue named after a lyrical singer) is a handsome tree-lined boulevard with a pretty fountain in the centre and coffee shops dotted here and there along its length. The covered market halfway along Luisa Todi is a joy: a large, clean and thriving commercial centre with fruit and vegetable, bread and cakes and fish stalls carefully laid-out within. Midway through Luísa Todi is the fine Bocage Square, with a splendid statue in its centre celebrating Setubal‘s renowned poet, and a number of cafés and restaurants. Running off the square in several directions are a labyrinth of small streets with boutiques, shops and small cafes; here and there the streets open up to squares with a small church or monument. Following these old town streets eastwards the visitor climbs towards the high-point overlooking the Troia car ferry and culminating in the excellent Work Museum, celebrating the city’s long industrial heritage.
The fishing port is picturesque and colourful, even if a bit industrialized, although it is a golden opportunity to see fishermen on their normal day to day routine cleaning fish, scrubbing boats or fixing fishing nets.
The best restaurants lie on the seafront near the fishing port at the western end of town. Local delicacies include Choco Frito (fried cuttlefish), as well as fresh sardines and many other kinds of fish. If you want to try some really good fried cuttlefish we recommend a restaurant called “Adega Leo do Petisco” which is located at a corner of the westernmost point of Avenida Luísa Todi (GPS).
You even have the choice to buy some fried cuttlefish in a bun to eat while you stroll around the docks (trust us, it’s tasty).
Setúbal is a place which you can and should visit any time of the year, however if you’re looking for the beach you should do it in the summer. A roofless bus operates to Figueirinha (during the summer only), a pleasant beach some 4-5km west of Setúbal. The trip takes you through the edges of the National Park and winds around a small river and through a cement factory before arriving at the beach.
How to get there:
If you’re driving you can get there rather easily as indications on the road are not lacking when it comes to Setúbal. (GPS)
In the Oriente Bus station you can take the bus to Setúbal that departs roughly every hour of the day (Schedule) and a one way ticket costs 4,30€ per person.
If you’d rather take the train you can go to the Sete Rios train station, six stops from The Elevator Hostel on the blue line and get the train there towards Setúbal, which is also roughly every hour (Schedule). A one way ticked will set you back 4,35€ per person.
As you can see they cost about the same, so just decide on which method of transportation you prefer and ride along to visit Setúbal!
fm’14
the elevator hostel 
